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Preparing/Amending your Garden Soil. The ideal garden soil structure consists of about 40% loam (dirt, organic matter), 40% sand, and 20% clay. To give your plants the best chance of thriving, amend your garden as appropriate to get this balance. This is probably the most important - yet most overlooked step. To check the makeup of your garden's soil, begin by lightly watering it - just enough so it's not 'dusty' on the top few inches. Now grab a handful of the soil and try to compress it into a ball - go ahead and squeeze it tightly. Once you've done (or tried) this, use your thumb to try to break up this ball. (another method is to fill a 1 gallon jar half full with water, then add some of your soil until the jar is 3/4 full. Seal your jar and shake the mixture well to get everything mixed together, then allow to settle overnight. The clay will naturally settle as the bottom layer, soil the middle, and sand the top layer). If the soil just crumbles apart and won't form a ball; or barely holds a ball shape and breaks apart with very little effort; then you probably have a soil structure that is too sandy. These soil types are not able to hold onto enough water and nutrients for plants to thrive - or even survive during the hot, dry summer months. In contrast, if your soil forms a very tight, compact ball that is very difficult to break loose with your thumb, then your soil structure has too much clay. These soils can hold too much water which can cause your plant's roots to rot. The soil is so closely packed together that roots have a hard time getting through it. If you suffer from either of these poor soil conditions, the remedy is the same - ADD ORGANIC MATTER, such as compost, peat moss, grass clippings, com-til, etc. The amount to add depends on the severity of your conditions, but a good starting point is to add a 2" - 3" layer of organic matter to the top of your garden, and then work it into the top 8" of soil. We carry all the amendments you'll need to get your gardens started on the right track! Almost everyone agrees that having a layer of mulch over your gardens makes them look better, but it also can really help your plants to grow and thrive. By applying a 2 - 4" layer of mulch, you can effectively keep weeds from growing in your garden and competing with your plants for food. And during long stretches without rain, the mulch will help your soil retain moisture much longer, reducing the need for supplemental watering. Many forms of mulch are available - hardwood; softwood; different colors; different sizes; or stone. Each can create a different effect in your garden, but they all add the same value to your plants - holds water longer and helps keep the garden weed-free. Removing Dead Blooms (dead-heading) One of the easiest ways to keep your garden blooming as much and long as possible is to remove the flower blooms once they have faded and lost their beauty. In nature, the faded bloom will begin to produce seeds, which takes valuable energy away from the flowering process. Removing the blooms before they turn to seed not only keeps this energy going to the flowers, but it also will promote your plant becoming more 'full' and 'bushy', and lead to even more blooms. To remove faded blooms, simply use a pair of pruners or scissors to cut the bloom from the rest of the plant. Usually, you want to go back to where the bloom first meets the 'main' stem of the plant... in other words, if the plant in question has a bloom on a long, leafless stem, don't simply cut the bloom off - go back on the stem until it meets the 'main' shoot and cut there. SPECIAL TIP FOR ROSES: When removing faded rose blooms, always cut just above the closest 5-bladed set of leaves...this is where the next bloom will come from. Plants need water to survive, just like we do. Nature sometimes provides all that they need; but sometimes it's necessary to water them. During the first week or two after you've planted, make sure they receive water daily while the roots become established in the garden. Once established, supplemental watering should be done at least on a weekly basis during periods without rain, depending on your mulching and weeding habits. Keep an eye on them - wilting and yellowing of lower leaves are indications of a thirsty plant. When you do need to water, make sure that the water reaches the root zone of the plants - don't just quickly wet the top of the ground. Use the surrounding soil or mulch to form a saucer around your plant, and then fill the saucer with water several times, allowing it to completely soak in before refilling. This ensures that roots will continue to grow downward, where the soil is cooler and stays wet longer. The best time to water is in the morning. Watering during the heat of the day can cause the plants to actually get burn spots from the sun magnified by the water. Evening watering can promote fungus and disease, which thrive in dark, wet conditions. Potted plants dry out very quickly, and require much more water than plants in the ground. A monthly dose of a complete, well balanced fertilizer should be applied on a monthly basis - perhaps more frequently for potted plants. Try to use a fertilizer that has an analysis similar to 20-20-20, and follow the instructions on the container. What does the 20-20-20 mean? Those numbers indicate the amount of nitrogen (first number), phosphorus (second number), and potassium (last number). In general, the nitrogen is used for lush, green growth; phosphorus promotes more, larger blooms; and potassium is used to promote healthy root growth. Try to use a fertilizer that also contains trace elements, which are also necessary for healthy plants. Far from all-inclusive, but here are some flowers that will thrive in your sunny garden:
The list is quite a bit shorter when looking for plants to bring color to your shade garden:
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